Part 8, Caye Ambergris, San Pedro Town

We set out on March 11th from Yo Creek to Belize City where we planned to take the Caye Caulker Water Taxi to Ambergris Caye and the town of San Pedro. Our plan was to arrive early enough in San Pedro to do a little snorkeling and sightseeing then have dinner and spend the night.  We thought we were in good shape since it is only 52 miles from Orange Walk Town to Belize City to get to the water taxi building.  We were even better prepared, so we thought, because we had purchased our water taxi tickets the day before from Antonio at Jungle River Tours.  The drive into Belize City was uneventful but what we were unprepared for was trying to maneuver through the city streets.  It was a spider web of narrow one-way streets, cruise ship passengers ashore for shopping and nowhere to park.  With Dave, Roger, and Brian working together we eventually found the Caye Caulker Water Taxi Building but knew we were too late to catch the 10:00 boat we had hoped to take.  We were relieved to see the parking lot had plenty of space so we unloaded our bags and got ready to go check in.  At the counter the ticket agents were more than slightly worried about the tickets we had purchased elsewhere.  They expressed their concerns that we had been taken and would have to purchase new tickets for all of us.  After several phone calls to be sure our tickets were legit we began to relax more.  When we mentioned to the ticket counter that we would be returning the next day we then learned that the parking lot where we left the van was not for overnight parking and we risked having it damaged if we left it there.  A taxi driver for the Water Taxi Association told Dave we could park it at his home and he would bring it back the next morning.  When Dave prepared to follow the driver across town they decided it would be a better idea to just leave the keys with the taxi driver and he would transport the van across town and back the next morning for us to pick up.  We hoped for the best and knew that it probably wasn't something George and Irma would advise us to do.

While we waited for our 11:30 water taxi to arrive I cracked open lunch from Lorena only to find the most delicious rice dish.  She calls it dirty rice but it is really much more like a fried rice filled with chicken and veggies.  And after a bit we were loaded and off to the island!

Ambergris Caye is the largest island in Belize and the main destination for travellers to the country. San Pedro is the only town on the island. Ambergris Caye has been the center for Belizean area maritime trade for centuries. Originally the focus was more on fishing and coconuts but in the last 30 years it has switched to diving, snorkeling, and ecotourism.

Belize has an amazing coral reef system, the second largest in the world and this hemisphere's longest, running offshore, and many cayes (islands of coral sand) are surrounded by astounding reefs to snorkle or scuba dive. The reef lies one-half mile east of the Ambergris Caye shoreline and runs the entire 25 mile length of the island. This has made San Pedro Town the dive and water sports capital of Belize and Central America.

The Holiday Hotel http://www.sanpedroholiday.com/

After a 90 minute boat ride we arrived in San Pedro and immediately started looking for a place to spend the night.  We ended up at the Holiday Hotel right on the beach.  As we were checking in we inquireda bout getting out for a snorkeling trip that afternoon.  One of the girls at the front desk made a phone call and let us know that the Reef Seeker Glass Bottom Boat typically leaves at 2:00 each day (at that point it was after 2:00) but they didn't have any passengers for the afternoon so they would head our way and be ready for us in the next 30 minutes.  We quickly went to our rooms and changed into swimwear to head out toward the reef. 

Mercedes Valdez and his son arrived at the pier right outside our hotel and promptly headed south toward the reef and the Hol Chan Marine Reserve. Hol Chan is Mayan for 'little channel." This sanctuary was officially established in 1987, and since then the return of all species of fish has been quite dramatic.


Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark Ray Alley are approximately 4 miles south of San Pedro Ambergris Caye. It is the single most popular day trip from San Pedro, perfect for snorkeling or diving. The reserve covers approximately three square miles and is divided into three zones. Each one is clearly marked by buoys. The entire reserve focuses on a cut through the reef which is little more than 25 yards wide and 30 feet deep.

The true vacation face!

Brian all geared up and ready to enter the water.

A local sail boat.

One of the local boats.

Exploring with snorkels.

Dave and Sarah.

When Mercedes (also known as Mitch) stopped the boat he and his son got us geared up in flippers, masks and snorkels and led us into the shark and ray infested waters.  For Janet and I it was our first experience snorkeling and it was AMAZING!  Huge rays and nurse sharks glided over the sandy bottom.  Schools of tiny colorful fish swam in and out of the coral and conch shells littered the ocean floor.  After quite a while I began feeling woozy and headed back to the boat.  Right about that time, Mitch motioned for all of us to come aboard so we could head to another spot.  I mentioned to Brian my feeling of sea-sickness and he told me it is actually quite common for divers because of the surge of the water.

When the rest of the group promptly splashed back into the sea, I chose to stay on the boat rather than lose my lunch out in the water.  Mitch encouraged me to climb to the top of the glass-bottom boat's flat roof and get a better view.  From there I was able to see everyone following our guide and even saw two huge sea turtles - a green sea turle and a loggerhead which had to be 3 feet across its back.  The cool air definitely made me feel better and soon we were all headed back to San Pedro.  We asked Mitch and his son where to get the best seafood dinner and were told Caramba. 

After getting cleaned up we wandered around the town a bit and asked another person where the best seafood was and again were told Caramba.  So off we went to Pescador Drive to sit and satiate our hunger.
Along the way we were bombarded by street vendors selling their wares - jewelry, cloth, carvings, and so many other things.  Eventually we made it to the restaurant and were greeted by a host who encouraged us to come inside.  When we mentioned that we had been told that this was the best place for seafood he immediately told us that he would bring some complimentary ceviche to us. 

And that ceviche was the best I have ever eaten!  Everyone enjoyed their meals and we also enjoyed trying out a couple other versions of Belikin beer.  www.ambergriscaye.com/caramba

With full bellies and tired bodies we headed back to the Holiday House to be lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves crashing on the shore.

The next morning after a great breakfast at Blue Reef restaurant we picked up where we had left off with our exploration of San Pedro.  We walked through the narrow streets busy with golf carts (the main mode of transportation on the island) and picked up a few things to bring home. 

Roger and Janet at breakfast.

Looking back at the beach from one of the piers.

The streets of San Pedro.

The beaches of San Pedro.

Visiting a local vendor.

Local art at the Blue Reef restaurant.

A quick drink before getting back on the water taxi to Belize City.

When we arrived back in Belize City we were relieved to find our van keys waiting for us at the front desk of the Water Taxi Association office.  We loaded into the van and headed north toward the old highway and the ruins at Altun Ha.